I’ve taken the plunge and started cutting a new quilt.
As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve had my interest in 19th century quilts piqued recently – and I think that I finally (maybe) have the skills and patience to pull off a heavily pieced quilt – so I’m going for it. Log cabin blocks here I come!
At the moment I am deep in the throes of cutting “logs” for the log cabin block:
The paper bags are there to divide the sizes and the dark/light fabrics from each other. As I’m not exactly sure how many finished log cabin blocks I’ll end up with, and would like the fabric to come along randomly, not in groups – I’m cutting all my fabric at the outset. This approach also allows me to chain piece one side at a time – which is a big time saver.
At first I was going to do a “modern” version of this – using Kona solids in jewel-toned colours, against a palette of neutrals. This would necessitate ordering more fabric which I am trying not to do, and result in a very stark set of blocks. But then I remembered that I had some Moda fabrics in my stash perfect for a 19th century quilt – print collections that I’ve been saving for a long time because I love them so much. These would be the French General Josephine and Atelier lines:

These fabrics are some of my all-time favourites, and thus have remained untouched for a long time (I have been fearful of ruining them with the wrong project). Something about the colourways and antique-inspired prints move me deeply every time I contemplate them. Taking them out this time was no different and I really had to talk myself into washing and preparing the fabric for use – but once I had it out of the dryer I started cutting the 1.5 inch strips in earnest.
I have about a third of the strips cut into logs now and I plan to power through this week and get it all done so I can reclaim my work table for other things. Once I start the chain piecing, I can start and stop by size – so once I get one side done and pressed, I can take it off the sewing machine for another project – and so on. This organization allows me to continue sewing summer garments (and have a friend in for some sewing coaching) in between bouts of chain piecing. With thirteen pieces per block, I don’t expect these to go together quickly – but I have reoriented my ironing station for maximum efficiency in this process.
I first learned to piece and quilt thirteen years ago, by taking a class at Carola’s Quilt Shop in Gibsons in which we made a potholder (which is a miniature quilt after all). Back then I didn’t believe I could ever get precise with my cutting and sewing; I had just bought a machine and preferred my projects to incorporate large squares and a fair degree of randomness.
The key thing I took away from that class (and for which I am forever grateful) was how to use a quilting ruler and a rotary cutter properly. As I take blade to fabric this time around, I notice that in fact I have gotten a lot more precise over the years – and am now at a stage where I can (probably) pull off a thirteen piece block 64 times with some precision. Part of that is the development of my skills, but also because I have discarded the notion of getting projects done quickly – something that used to be important to me.
I’m quite excited about this project – which will answer my desire for a 19th-century-inspired quilt in my life. Not exactly sure where in the house it will get used yet – but I know from experience that once a quilt is made, it always finds its place somewhere.
Since watching the mini-series version of Alias Grace on Netflix a couple of weeks ago, I’ve been thinking a lot about classic quilt blocks. There’s quite a bit of quilt-talk in that story and the period-accurate quilts featured on the show are extraordinarily beautiful.
I’ve been wanting to make a new full sized quilt for awhile, but I’m still deciding what style and materials I want to use. A queen-sized quilt is a big undertaking so you really have to love what you start with – there is no half-hearted quilting!
As part of this exploration I pieced together a log cabin block from some garment scraps the other night as an experiment to see if I might have the patience to do a whole log cabin quilt (answer: probably). Log cabin is such an interesting block because it can be laid out in so many different ways to some really stunning effects.
With just one log-cabin block made out of scrappy twill and linen (and a tiny center of double gauze) – I was totally in love with the finished product. Instead of setting it to the side I added some interfacing and extra fabric and turned it into a small bag just big enough for my iPad, wallet, and phone (there is a phone pocket on the back side).

This was a quick project and used up a bunch of scraps which is satisfying on both counts. It’s not at all original (turning a quilt block into a bag), but by using these heavier bottom-weight fabrics in neutral colours, this bag doesn’t feel “scrappy” at all to me. I love patchwork – but I don’t necessarily want to wear it on my person – you know?
Of course it’s fully lined, and has a cel phone pocket on the back for easy access. I’m kicking myself now that I didn’t put magnetic snaps into the lining because I feel like that would be a perfect final touch – but I might sew a heavy duty snap in instead for securing the closure. I’m not sure if I really need it though so I’ll use the bag a bit first before I decide.
I’ve been writing about making pants for months now – and have managed to overthink it to the point where I became paralyzed, then got over-complicated, then tried to simplify – and finally! Have arrived at a finished product.
Though I have made pants once before – it wasn’t my best project in terms of fit and I didn’t have the skills at the time to analyze what had gone wrong. As far as I was concerned, crotches and closures were an insurmountable problem – and I’ve stuck to skirts, tops and dresses since then.
A couple of things have motivated me to move on this lately, however. One is my MeMadeMay pledge to sew to fill in wardrobe gaps. If I ever had a gap, it is pants! The other is an episode that aired on the Love to Sew podcast (my favourite and out of Vancouver BC!) last week on upping one’s sewing game – which I found really motivating. Basically the idea is that wherever you are at right now, do the next more complicated thing – new types of garments or finishes, trickier fabrics, etc. I have a few areas that I would like to push myself – but pants was the one I was geared up for.
For my first project I chose the Emerson crop pants and some medium-weight cotton twill I bought in Vancouver a few months ago. I decided this would be my “muslin” pair. The fabric was inexpensive enough at $7 a metre that if they didn’t work – no harm, and if they did then I would have my first pair of transition-season pants. I also decided to interline the top of the pocket with some left-over double gauze.
I am pleased to say that they turned out swimmingly with just a few adjustments that I made off the top – and a few small sewing mishaps (one of which lead to me having to redo a whole front leg-piece).
The reason I chose these pants is because they crop at mid-calf, and they have an elastic back-waist which means no closures while still maintaining a flat front. I have made a couple of skirts with this type of waistband and I really love that approach. The hardest part is pulling the elastic through the casing, but it’s worth it for not having to baste on a zipper – plus they have a greater fit range. Turns out the pattern was also incredibly easy to follow – so kudos to True Bias for their clear writing and diagrams.
Because I am just 5’3, I took a couple of inches off the bottom hem of the pattern right away. This is a standard for me in all dress and skirt making these days. In tops, on the other hand – I often add an inch. It’s that longer-torso-to-leg ratio-thing I’ve got going on. As well, I graded the pattern from a larger waist size to a smaller hip/leg size. I am really glad I did that, because while these fit really well at the waist, there is still some room to take out at the hip (one more size) – which would give it a smaller leg profile. Because pants are supposed to fall direct from the hip, you can’t really grade down to less than the hip width.

Though it’s hard to tell in that selfie – the heavier twill gives these a structured look – which I really love. These have enough polish that I can wear them when I go into the office in Vancouver, but they are almost as comfy as pj bottoms. For my next pair I plan to use some dark red linen which will not have the same structure, but will be a perfect spring/summer wear.
My favourite feature of these pants though? It’s this bit of selvedge showing on the right hand pocket:

I haven’t written about it much here – but for most of this winter I’ve been in a bit of a slump. Not really depressed, just meh. Not inspired. Not wanting to face the rain and get outside. I have been working, and sewing, and reading a lot – but it has felt more like going through the motions than getting excited about anything.
Having sat with this for a bit, I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that I haven’t fully adjusted to the move we made eighteen months ago. While I do not miss the busyness of the city, and have no interest in returning – I have come to see that I haven’t replaced all of what fed me there – and that I am still trying to figure out what it is I need to live here, in this smaller and more insular place. This is exacerbated slightly by the fact that Brian is gone for work three days a week, but even if he were here full time, I would feel the same.
Because this is an impasse with myself. An acceptance of an inertia that ticks away the days of working from home, watching netflix in the evenings, reading the occasional book, and making things in my studio. Nothing wrong with any of these things – but it all feels a bit lazy, undisciplined, and uncommitted. And thus the feeling of the slump.
I’ve been taking stock of all of this and believe the following to be true of me
The only one of these things being fed by my job at the moment is the “central and involved” bit since I am the president of my union local. Otherwise, I have not had much of the rest of them going on all winter. When I lived in the city many of these things just happened without effort: the discipline of riding my bike to work; the social interaction with colleagues and community members; the intellectual stimulation of wine-soaked arguments with friends. In this smaller place, working from home – these don’t just *happen* – in the same way. I have to be much more focused to make it so.
To these ends I have embarked on a bit of a path to self-improvement starting last month with some budget control to get the continuous shopping impulse of the Internet in check, which will allow me to have a second (non-house) savings account earmarked for *something*. I haven’t quite figured out what that something is yet – but one possibility is a three month leave from work in 2020 to go to Japan for some weaving study and zen pilgrimage (Brian is on board with this idea – though we both struggle with the ecological impact of travel). A separate bank account is a nice indicator of progress, as it is measurable. So far I’ve managed to put $1500 in there between some overtime pay and curbing my spending this month which feels positive.
Two weeks ago, I signed up for the gym here. We have only one and luckily it is pretty well equipped and friendly – though we have no swimming pool (which makes me sad). Since signing up, I have been five times and am developing a routine of weights and cardio that I can build on. I think I’m going to follow an actual program from a book I got out of the library – as it fits with my tendency and desire to lift heavy with some bursts of cardio. My overall goal is to build strength – muscular development is nicely measurable like the bank account. I’m also hopeful that I will get more toned and lose weight in the process. Or at the very least stop gaining weight (yay perimenopause).
Last week I volunteered to revive the “library” at the Gabriola Commons. I offered to donate some books and was informed that the library was in sad shape – so I’ve stepped up to catalogue what is there and start soliciting some donations to really create something useful to the community. I envision a library with alternative building techniques, gardening, renovation and repair, making/fixing information – which will complement the tool library and the overall use of the space. This is a nice, definable project, which I have been given license to run with – and I like that. There is also some possibility I will end up helping with the communications committee/website – since the woman who is working on that end of things is having a bit of a struggle with it – but I don’t like swooping in and so I’ve offered her my help and we’ll see how that goes.
And this week, Brian and I went to a folky/rootsy open-mic that happens every Monday – and we think this will be a regular occurrence. We know that we need a regular gig where we get out of the house – and a place where we can watch and/or perform music is the right kind of venue. Of course, it’s a lot of people doing sixties covers – but they are a receptive and friendly bunch – and the venue works for us. I think a regular thing to go out to is positive socially, and it will encourage us to get on our tune-playing game.
The only thing I don’t have covered with these activities is the intellectual stimulation part – and I think that will best be met with a regular writing practice I am still trying to define. As with exercise, dedicated time to think and write are what is needed to build that intellectual part of myself – but I haven’t determined yet that I am going to set aside x amount of time every day, which is what I need to develop that practice properly.
With the warmer weather finally here, I am looking out from my hibernation cave with a renewed commitment to myself, and also facing the reality that to move somewhere new is to require the creativity to invent life in the patterns of a new place. It takes awhile to see that – and I fooled myself a bit when moving that it would only take a few months to settle. Of course, to re-orient the rhythms of our lives takes years, not months. Community integration does not happen overnight, no matter how welcoming the place is.
Self-reflective interlude over – I will be back with more sewing tomorrow as the Emerson crop pants are nearly done!
I’ve been posting the above hammock photo all over the place – as it is endlessly pleasing to me. On the weekend Brian got the side-yard re-mulched and installed hardware for the hammock in this spot (it was previously elsewhere but we have other plans for that space). It was warm enough Sunday afternoon that I spent a full hour in that hammock, reading a book (Mrs. Osmond by John Banville) and watching the little birds flit around. Once spring advances and the trees leaf out a bit more, that spot becomes very shady – making it perfect for the warm days of summer which are surely upon us.
I finished this top on the weekend – several hours of hand-sewing (those polka dots are sewn on) down. Black on black makes for very tired eyes, and I won’t be making that mistake again. This top is a riff on the Alabama Chanin techniques. I used a self-drafted pattern for the top, the polka dot template from the School of Making, and contrasting button/craft thread for the applique. For future projects like this I plan to use silk embroidery thread instead of the button thread – because I’m looking to move 100% biodegradable in my wardrobe and button threads are polyester (and stiff as hell). My next project will be the swing skirt in teal and gray – though I haven’t decided what contrasting fabric paint/thread I will use. I’m not someone who likes a whole lot of flash up top (I have issues with my bust line) – but I have been trying to use brighter colours and more pattern in bottoms to lighten up the wardrobe a bit from my tendency towards dark-hued garments.
I have another black tank top that is almost finished and just needs arm hole and neckline hand-finishing, so am well on my way to summer clothes. This is good news because temperatures are finally on the increase here. Though so far, I have tops for days and not nearly enough bottoms – so in addition to that swing skirt in the offing, I’ve just cut out the pattern for the Emerson Crop Pants (by True Bias) and hope to get those sewn this week. The fabric I’ve cut-out is more fall-weight (black twill) – but given the unsteady days of spring, they could get more wear on this side of summer than anticipated. If this experiment goes well, I’ll be making my next pair in red linen.
I’m hoping that by sewing for warmer weather – it will continue to be so. That’s how it works – right?