Post #3143: Before cutting into the fabric

Last week I posted a picture of this fabric, but the photo didn’t really do it justice. I’ve just finished hand washing it, and it’s drying on the rack – so before I go any further in my quest to turn this into a garment I took a proper photo.

This fabric came to me through Heather Cameron – one of my island neighbours and a brilliant textile artist. Seriously – check out her work in translating the Codex Canadiana into stitches which you can find through her blog.

Anyhow – she generously offered me some vintage/antique Japanese textiles for a zen-related project I am working on and that included some yardage of the silk fabric you see in the photo. This fabric was reclaimed from a kimono, and the bulk of it is in three thin (12 inch wide) but long (3 yard) strips. There are a few other small pieces as well. I’ve just now handwashed the lot and it’s drying on a rack in my studio while I think about how to approach working with it. Even a good photo of the fabric doesn’t do it justice really – the flecks on the floral motive are an actual silver, the taupe background is more nuanced – you get the idea.

Looking at this fabric helps me realize how far I have come in sewing and making garments. If I had received such a parcel a few years ago, I would not even know how to begin to approach it – how to work with these strange cuts of fabric, how to ensure the antique material will hold up to wear and so on. Coming to it now, though – I have some ideas.

First of all – to find a pattern that will work. I am going to start with the Tea House Dress pattern because I’ve wanted to try it for awhile, and it should be do-able in narrow width pieces. I’m not sure about that yet of course – first I have to cut the pattern out and then lay it out on the kimono fabric to see if all the pieces will fit, and if not, where I might be able to stitch material together to make it work (the back will definitely need to pieced). If it appears that I can fit the whole pattern onto the silk, then I’ll proceed by making a muslin to work with the fit of the dress overall. I’ve not made this pattern before, but I did make the Mississippi Avenue dress last year by the same company, and I found the fit worked for me without any adjustments.

One thing I like about the Tea House dress is that there are no closures – button holes or zippers – to worry about. This mainly because I don’t want to overwork the fabric either in making or wearing it. This pattern is also a forgiving shape – no hugging seams – which means less pull on the garment when it’s being worn. I’m also planning to underline with a black cotton batiste which I hope will provide a bit more body without losing the drape of the original too much. Plus I’ll do french seams where possible for a nice, stable finish on the inside.

I expect it will be at least a month between now and this dress being finished because I want to make a full muslin (which I frequently do not do), and hand sew in the underlining, the hems and so on. If it turns out the pattern I have chosen isn’t the right one, it may be even longer. I want to be ever so intentional in using this fabric since it is truly a one-of-a-kind occurrence in my life.

The photo at the top of this post is from the Guo Pei exhibit at the Vancouver Art Gallery which closes this weekend. If you do not know about the work of this costumer and dress maker, you really have to do a Google search and see the wonders she creates with fabric and thread. Truly remarkable and I feel privileged to have seen these creations up close!

Post #3142: Ten days in

As mentioned in my last post, I am doing a thirty-day yoga challenge this month. Today is Day 9 and between the yoga and the gym – I’ve got odd pains everywhere. One of those pains is in my leg and started back in December, so it precedes this experiment – the other little pains though, they feel like small openings in my body and come and go. This yoga isn’t overly vigorous, but it does have me stretching everyday – plus I’ve been rolling my feet with a lacrosse ball to try to fix a couple of ongoing issues, and working on my posture (to fix my pelvic tilt) quite a lot. Essentially, standing upright is hard work and my body is giving me interesting feedback when I work on doing that.

Besides the yoga, I’ve been feeling inspired by my word of the year (radiant) and reaching outwards a lot. This has so far helped me to restore a friendship, added wonderful vintage Japanese fabrics to my stash, and gotten some movement on a workplace harassment case for which I am the union rep. My hope for this year is that I will continue to feel motivated in this way, that I will not second guess my desire to be open and out there. I know from a whole life of experience how hard it is to stay shiny in this world – but since I’m now practically invisible as a middle aged woman, I feel less circumspect about the whole thing.

I’ve finished one garment so far – a shirt for Brian which was meant to be a Christmas present. The power outage thwarted my sewing gifts plan (note to self: start earlier next year) so I’m finishing up last year’s sewing now:

Yes, I know the plaid doesn’t match on the front. Didn’t stop a co-worker from Brian’s from asking if I could sew one for him!

Now I’m working on a new dress for myself which I hope to get done in the next few days so I can show it off here. I’ve got so many things I want to sew at the moment, not to mention my desire to get something on the loom again – but I’m also looking for a more well-rounded year, one with more music and physical activity – so projects will just take the time they do.

I am grateful to be on the other side of the darkest days and have noticed the light returning, particularly in the late afternoon. It is no longer dark at 4 pm – last night I went to the mailbox at 5 without a flashlight! These months often feel the longest – when we are waiting for the spring to come again – but the days will open again and in the meantime, there are so many little projects to sustain us.

Post #3141: Turning to the next year

Somehow we’ve made it to 2019. I find myself amazed by that fact – don’t you? The world keeps turning despite all the crazy things going on in it, and here we are.

I’ve done three things in the last twenty-four hours that I hope will improve my productivity and mindfulness in 2019:

  • plugged my phone charger into an outlet that isn’t in the bedroom
  • removed the Facebook app from my phone
  • started a 30 day yoga challenge

None of these are related to a resolution, but as I’ve got an eye on things I would like to accomplish this year (including reading more actual books), I’m seeking ways to minimize the distractions and boost up my physical energy. I spend 8 hours a day in front of a computer for work, so I’d like to reduce the amount of time I spend on my mini-computer (phone) elsewhere in the day.

I will acknowledge that starting today off without my phone beside me felt odd, but I was way more prompt in getting to the meditation cushion as a result.

I still have some sewing projects to finish from 2018 since our power went out on the 20th and didn’t come back until the afternoon of the 24th – but instead of working on those yesterday I started a massive clean of the studio and I’m not quite yet finished. By this weekend though, I should have a load of stuff out the door and a very clean workspace for the beginning of the year. As Brian and I are doing the #januarycure again, there will be a thorough sort of the house (including all the closets) over the next month as well.

I’m launching a new project in a couple of weeks – which I’ve got to wrap my head around still – and in order to bring some external accountability to myself, I’ve signed up for monthly follow-through sessions at Good in Victoria. Just before the holidays I realized that writing daily goals for a million things in my planner (ie: nagging myself) wasn’t actually very effective at keeping myself straight – so I’m trying a different tact.

I’m re-starting the weekly meditation sits I host next week, and have signed up for retreats in February and May. I plan to also sign up for July and November retreats once they are open for registration. I chose the word “Radiant” for 2019 in my #yearcompass exercise and was pleased to note that the first retreat at Mountain Rain this year is titled “Radiant Light: The teachings of Dogen Zenji”. I love it when life themes snug up against one another like that.

The last couple of years my annual words have been a bit bland – Clarity for 2017 and Mindful for 2018. Contrast that with 2016 when my word was Movement – and we ended up moving that year (which wasn’t on the horizon when I did my #yearcompass). I’m hoping that by going with something with more light and reach – I will spur a bit more follow through on some ideas I’ve got, and allow myself to shine in 2019.

Another storm seems to be rolling in this afternoon with a huge amount of rain predicted. Fingers crossed the power stays on!

Post #3140: Sewing down to the season

Now that the days are really short, it’s become difficult to get good photos for my social and blog posts – particularly as the last two days have been darkly overcast and rainy.  Perhaps 2019 will be the year I invest in a photo set-up with some lighting – I keep thinking about it but then I’m not sure if I care all that much. 

I’m in the midst of Christmas-gift sewing at the moment – for Brian and my Mom mostly. I’m also knitting something for Mica which should be done by the time she arrives here just ahead of her birthday (next week). As much as I feel overwhelmed by everything I’d like to get done in the next two weeks, I do enjoy going into the studio and knowing exactly what I have to work on next. I have two sewing projects on the go at the moment, with a third and fourth to be added in the next few days. Photos will have to wait until after the holidays of course.

In the meantime I’ll show off the shirt I finished last week for Brian. It’s a pattern I hadn’t used before (M6044) so it was a test to see if I got the fit right – and huzzah! On first try it fit him like a dream:

This shirt is 100% stash busting – fabric (bought on sale years ago for $5 per metre), buttons, and pattern – which makes it feel like a freebie. It came together so easily that I would make it again without question. M6044 is a great all-round pattern which many options (pockets, long sleeves, yoke etc). I’ve gotten a lot of shirt inspiration from Male Pattern Boldness who is worth checking out if you are sewing male clothing styles.

On Friday I discovered that the Fabricland in Nanaimo has closed – a drag in the moment because I had planned to purchase a few fabric odds and ends for the gifts I am making. Instead, I have been forced to get creative with what I have in my stash which has turned out to be excellent for emptying my overflowing fabric drawers. As far as stashes go – I’m not excessive, but I do tend to purchase garment amounts of yardage, so it does take up space.

Through the holidays and into the new year I have plans to sort supplies in the studio so I can declutter a bit. In our house we do the January cure every year, and I think I’ll do a parallel process in my studio. It’s not that I’m so much into new year’s resolutions, but I do find a thorough cleaning and sorting process sets the year off in the right direction. Besides, I haven’t washed the floors in here since we moved in. It’s about time for a top to bottom cleaning. 

Post #3139: Snapshot of a house for sale

Brian and I went to look at a house yesterday afternoon – a bit of a lark really, because we wanted to see what 4000 square foot home was selling for $600,000 that had wrap around decks and a great room with a view of Nanaimo harbour.

What we discovered was in fact, the house where dreams (and marriages) go to die. 

No photos because I didn’t take any and the real estate pics are from some other time. Short version: what we walked into was someone’s passion project that didn’t go well, and a story about how the sale of the house was part of a contentious divorce. 

But for more details: this thing is built on a straight up/down vertical interface (a 25% grade) with a sheer rock to its back and 1500 linear feet of retaining walls holding up the foundation of the home. It’s pretty apparent that someone did most of the work themselves, finished none of it to completion, and then the house (and likely marriage) started to fall apart before substantial finishing was done. For example, the ensuite bathroom off the master bedroom has no bathtub. Closets have no doors. Electrical switches and outlets have no plates. Dramatic and architectural posts in the vaulted ceiling of the great room, don’t quite meet up at right angles. The floor with radiant heating installed seems to have some warped spots in the underlying structure as though it wasn’t laid correctly. And so on.

Damage immediately evident upon entering the house was pooling water (coming from a leak in the ceiling) in the hot tub room, warped doors, and  broken appliances. And although there *is* a spectacular view from the upper wrap-around deck, there is so much water damage (and rot), that we and the realtor didn’t feel very safe standing on it. Oh, and as we left we noted that the retaining walls appear to be bulging outward in two places likely due to a drainage problem. 

What little property exists around the house (it’s half an acre, but all vertical), is home to an abandoned outhouse with no door, a play structure with the roof ripped off, and piles of garbage everywhere. 

While our realtor didn’t know much about the owners or the history of the place, it wasn’t hard to surmise that the house itself was a likely culprit in the end of the marriage. For one thing, building on that lot would have been a stressful and expensive undertaking from the get go. I’m not sure why one would buy a steeply vertical lot at the bottom of a sheer rock face, but I do know that it takes a hell of a lot of money to build in a spot like that. And while it’s clear that someone had a big vision for a showpiece home, so much money was spent in engineering the build, than nothing was left for inside finishing and so countertops, fixtures, and cabinetry are all of the cheapest home depot quality. Paperwork on file also indicates that the owners were living in the build as it was going up – for perhaps as long as 15 years (the septic was approved in 1996, but the occupancy wasn’t legal until 2005, and it still wasn’t finished).  You couldn’t design a building situation that would put more strain on a marriage than this. 

The house has now been unoccupied for a couple of years, probably more – so in addition to the many inborn defects, it also feels like its people have fled, leaving plant pots to rot on the balconies, and a stripped down marital bed in the unfinished master bedroom. As I told Brian on our way home – everything about the place made me sad, like it was hard to envision that the house had ever seen a happier time. Although the house is advertised as “built for entertaining” it’s unlikely that many guests were ever invited into the never-ending process tinged with family despair. (The house is also advertised as “ready for your finishing touches” when in fact it needs structural repair and a new geotechnical review.) 

Someone bought that lot in the throes of a new marriage and a dream, and appears to have left with neither. It’s not an unfamiliar story on these islands. At first glance on a B&B holiday they seem like magical enclaves, and it’s easy to get swept up in the romance of it all. But then there are the realities of rural living, groundwater limitations, geological aspects of living on a rock rising out of the sea, the fact that no bylaw enforcement exists to make your neighbours clean up their derelict vehicles, a shortage of available builders, and so on. It is certainly not uncommon to find new-ish places for sale which have occupancy permits, but have never been occupied or even full finished. Which I suppose just goes to show how the best laid plans….. But in this case, there weren’t even well laid plans and it shows from top to bottom, leaving me with a deeply unsettled feeling about how many people are running around in this world with such poor judgement. It also made me profoundly grateful that I am not partnered to someone prone to flights of grandiosity or throwing money away on hopeless projects.

Curiosity satisfied, though I’m still trying to shake off the bad house vibes.