In progress towards the end of 2012.

I feel like it’s been ages since posting something even marginally inspiring on the finished project front – but that’s because I’ve got four decent sized-projects on the go right now: a lap-sized quilt (60 x 60) for my step-daughter for Christmas, a “Grinch Who Stole Christmas” themed quilt for my nephew, a Juliana Wrap for my mother (first major segment pictured above), and the husband sweater (pictured below).

This weekend I got M’s quilt half-quilted, I pieced six of nine squares for my nephew’s quilt, I got the center-segment of my mother’s wrap done, and I pieced together the husband sweater so I can start work on the collar, cuffs and bottom band later this week. I also chained together some crochet stars for house decorating (pictures tomorrow), cleaned my sewing room out for a visiting friend to sleep in, and decorated the house with the family last night.

So despite the lack of “finished” objects at the moment, within 15 days I will have four more items for the annual photo-roundup of things I have made in the year. While I do not have as many things in this year’s inventory, I notice there are more large and complex projects (like handmade sweaters!) which are filling out my accomplishments. All in, it’s been a pretty good year for making, and these last few items will add nicely to what’s been put out in the world by me in 2012.

Also worth mentioning – I’ve got clothing labels on their way in the post right now! (30 labels = $16) Going forward, I plan to afix labels to all my handmade items so as to identify 1) where they came from and 2) the correct direction/side to wear them. Since making my own clothing, I’ve discovered that *not* having labels means that I’m forever having to use other clothing cues to wear them the right way around. Labels should solve that problem for me (and for others who receive items as gifts).

Workplace blues: Harassment.

I so rarely share anything “personal” these days it seems – here at least – and in most parts of my life. It seems easier to just go along getting along, if you know what I mean. By complaining, we just end up dwelling further on the thing which irked us in the first place. And so I don’t, very often, complain in public. Who wants to hear me rant anyway? It gets so very tedious.

But I’m compelled to write today about a harassment situation at my work that has been going on for almost two and a half years now. That’s me being harassed by a co-worker if you can believe it…..  And no, the irony of the union rep (working to become a certified mediator) being subject to harassment is not lost on me.  It just goes to show that all the tips and techniques in the world are no match for one of the most insidious forms of bullying – shunning.

You see, back in August of 2010 I had to ask my co-worker (let’s call her Lois, since it’s a name I associate with no one in the real world) to stop verbally attacking me during a situation that got inexplicably heated at work. She wanted to prove to me she was right about something – something I had already conceded  I could not remember – by emailing me articles about a gruesome set of serial killings which took place in my neighbourhood over a number of years. I asked her not to email them to me (the case disturbs me to my core), and instead she kept going on and on about them until I asked her to stop. In fact my exact words were, “I need you to stop this. Right now. Please stop.”

Since that time she has only spoken directly to me on one occasion, and only so she wouldn’t appear to be unreasonable in front of our co-workers.

So imagine this. You sit beside someone at work, see them every day, and they suddenly refuse to speak or look at you. When you contribute in a staff meeting, that same person sighs loudly, rolls their eyes, or sometimes even gets up and looks out a window. When you speak to your co-workers who sit in the same work area – at normal levels of interaction in our environment – that same person indirectly shouts to be quiet because you are interrupting their work,  and then goes to all your other co-workers and complains about you being “too loud”. When you join a group of colleagues chatting or working together, this person leaves the group. When you encounter them in the elevator, they look through you. Instead of holding a security door open when you’re three feet away from it, they let it swing shut.  Oh, and let’s not forget the gasps of mock outrage emitted every time you say something this person doesn’t agree with (this includes times I have been on the phone giving union advice to people).

So that. For two and a half years.

Fortunately she moved desks close to the one year anniversary of it beginning – this after accusing two colleagues of “being on my side” among other things. On a happy note, her relocation to another part of the office allowed me to move someone else from my team into our work area, and now our corner is quite snug and happily shunned by Lois, even as I still experience some of the above behaviour on a regular basis. Mostly I’ve been able to let the last year go by without it affecting me too much.

I believe it’s a situation in which filing a complaint with management won’t help, and having watched Lois over the years, I don’t believe she is capable of engaging in meaningful  conflict resolution. (We once had a supervisor who requested a mediation around their working relationship, and rather than taking her up on is, Lois went around the office badmouthing her and spreading some pretty nasty gossip.) Mostly, I’ve just been waiting for her to retire, which I am hopeful is sooner rather than later (she’s a good twenty years older than me).

The reason I’m writing about this now? Because I’ve been triggered this week, and it’s reminded me how painful a situation like this really is. How destructive to the self-esteem, emotional well-being, and professional confidence a single individual can be!

Triggering event? The staff Christmas luncheon Lois took it on herself to organize. When I suggested over email that the chosen venue was too expensive for me because it included a cab ride and I’m broke at the moment – she said “we’ll vote then. majority rules” as if it’s ever appropriate to have an office staff vote on whether someone can afford to do something or not. I attempted to thwart the vote by declining to attend the luncheon, but still she pressed the issue in our staff meeting yesterday, to which my co-workers cast their eyes down and for the most part mumbled that they agreed with her choice. Uncomfortable, yes. But less so for them, than for me.

You see, this particular thing wasn’t about me, but at the same time when I requested accommodation (something more in keeping with previous staff luncheons which have totaled $20 or less), she turned it into an instance of how I was wrong and how everyone else would side with her. And that’s a sick game I will do anything to avoid. (It’s a little reminiscent of always being wrong growing up, and I have little emotional defense for it.)

The worst part about it all? I am sure some of my co-workers are aware of what’s gone on, and yet almost no one has acknowledged it. Only the folks who sit closest to me (those accused of being on my side) have even commented on the bizarre and insulting behaviour over the past 28 months. And thank goddess for them!  At least they can reflect back to me that I’m not crazy or over-analyzing.

Years ago Lois used to come to me with gossip about other people in the office which I would always ask her not to share with me. This was a point of contention between us for a long time until she stopped “confiding” in me the secrets or assumptions she had made about other people. I suspect this was one thing underlying my eventual shunning, and it’s something I don’t miss at all. But my point to bringing it up is – the only way to stop the office gossip/bully is to tell them directly that what they are doing isn’t on, rather than humoring them in hopes they go away.

I think in my circumstance people assume that because I am adept at conflict resolution and play a vital role in my workplace in supporting the problems of others, I must be strong enough to handle it, or somehow impervious to insults of others. But really, I’m a human with regular feelings, no matter how good I am at putting a good face on things. And I’m like most other people – self-conscious, triggered by particular behaviours, and falsely stoic in my workplace  (my professional experience has repeatedly demonstrated that the most stoic people are often just at the surface of bursting….)

To underscore: this situation has been tremendously painful, partly because we are somewhat trapped in our work environments (especially in this economy), and short of leaving my workplace I haven’t found much of a solution beyond putting up with it and hoping Lois will eventually get bored with her game, or retire, or something. And I suppose I am writing this to add a few points to the discussion about workplace bullying and how it is best addressed:

  • shunning is a form of harassment
  • bullying has real effects on people, even adults
  • it’s up to all of us to confront bullies and create positive environments for each other
  • management can rarely help us because interpersonal bullying is difficult to pinpoint and prove – however, managers and supervisors do have a proactive responsibility to address situations when they arise
  • even if bullying is difficult to prove, it doesn’t mean it isn’t happening or that the victim of it isn’t experiencing real impacts – taking time to check in (without getting into the details of the situation or taking sides) is one way to support them.

And for the record, I am fine. Really, I am. But my week would have been a lot better if not for the nonsense that has transpired – and since being triggered, I know it’s going to be a couple of weeks before work feels okay again. I won’t be participating in our Christmas lunch this year – partly because of the money, but partly because I can’t go and fake that everything is okay in our office when for me – it is absolutely not. It will be again. But right now? No.

I’m not so great at “being the bigger person” when I’m feeling anything this acutely. I’m not so great at seeing the other side right now either. I’m just hoping to get through the next few weeks before holidays without letting it get to me more than it has. Sometimes that *is* all we can do. 

Bookshed: Dressmaking for Real Women

ImageLorna Knight’s Dressmaking for Real Women: How to Adapt Your Store-bought Patterns to Flatter the Curves You Want to Keep and Drape the Ones You Don’t is a book that I wish was on my shelf when I started sewing garments a couple of years ago. For one thing, when I started sewing, I didn’t understand why you couldn’t just shorten a skirt or pair of pants by hemming up from the bottom. And for another, I didn’t realize in dress-making how many possible alterations one could make to get the best possible fit. These are just two of the areas that Knight covers in detail, with full-colour photographs and illustrations along with concise explanatory text.

Starting with a section on measurement and body type, the novice sewist is lead through a series of considerations when choosing a garment pattern, and then recognizing what points might need alteration. Straight up, this is not a body-shaming book at all! But it does recognize that many of us who sew garments are doing so because our bodies don’t always fit neatly into “off-the-rack” garments. In my case, I’m busty and short, with an apple-y figure. Knight covers my body type and makes recommendations for the type of garments I might find most comfortable in (and she’s right, I always seek out and make upper body garments that flow over the hip and I hate clingy fabric). This provides a good starting point for pattern-browsing.

Knight mainly examines various points for alteration step-by-step, walking the reader through shoulders, neckline, bust, back, sleeve, hips, and pants-fitting considerations. In each section, she breaks down considerations the sewist might have and then tackles modifications to suit the wearer. She then guides us through making a toile (a dummy garment to ensure correct fit – something I almost never do but always think I should), as well as some basic sewing and finishing techniques.

After sewing garments for a couple of years, I’ve recently become interested in making better-quality pieces. That is, I’ve got the straight techniques of cutting, sewing and following mid-range patterns down and I feel like it’s time to move into more thoughtful garment-making. This means more careful pattern selection as well as introducing more couture techniques into everyday garments so as to get the longest wear and the best fit out of them. Certainly commercial pattern alteration is a skill worth learning as part of this quest for nicer DIY clothing!

Knight’s book is a real pleasure with up-to-date techniques, bright photos, body-image-friendly illustrations, and a lot of core information about sewing garments explained. Definitely on the recommended list for someone who is newly-engaged in garment-making, but slightly beyond the stage of just learning to follow a pattern.

Love Letter #2

Today’s contribution to The World Needs More Love Letters holiday campaign.

“In the country of loss, there are no words which can bring back what’s gone.  All comforts are stripped in this rocky place, dark except the glimmer which keeps us going, one step after another. A lit candle, a crimson ray of daylight, a lantern held aloft – the light in the distance has various forms – but what it emits is pure love.

Our love of life and of one another. Our collective love which wraps its arms around us and holds us upright during our worst times. I hope in this season you have found that glimmer and known that light was shining just for you. It will get brighter as you continue to move towards it.”

Skirt city…..

No matter the time of year, I tend to lean pretty heavily on the basic skirt as part of my wardrobe. Dresses off the rack have rarely worked for me because I’m either too short or too booby or too whatever for them – and pants (as much as I love a comfy pair of jeans) often leave me feeling dumpy. Skirts in comparison can be flirty and cute, are easily altered, and go with almost any occasion (paired with long johns, I even wear them hiking). Fortunately, skirts are also really easy to make, which means I am forever collecting fabric that will “one day” get turned into something wearable.

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Skirt one: Quilting cotton underlined with brown batiste-like fabric.

The problem with that of course, is that so much of the fabric I appreciate is of the quilting cotton variety – which means that even for summer wear it can leave something to be desired in terms of structure and garment-worthiness. Quilting cottons are intended to be sew into layers with other fabrics – after all – and they can look a little flimsy on their own.

Since I have lots of cotton fabric that wants to be garments in my sewing closet, I’ve recently (in the last two weeks) come around to attempting the technique of underlining.

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Skirt two: Christmas skirt comprised of quilting cotton, red satin trim and polyester taffeta underlining.

You see, there is creating a lining for a skirt, and then there is underlining – and the two skirts I’ve just made lead me to believe that the latter is superior for my needs and well worth the (slightly) extra effort. Underlining entails cutting out lining pieces the same as the main fabric pieces, and then basting those lining pieces right to the main fabric so as to create a whole fabric which is then used to create the skirt. Threads magazine has a much better description of it here: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4999/understanding-underlining.

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Synthetic taffeta underlining on the Christmas skirt.

What I’ve discovered from this first foray into underlining my skirts is that the cotton looks a lot more substantial for garment-wear, the skirts have more structure and look better as a result,  the cotton doesn’t wrinkle nearly as much from all-day wear, and the skirts are more appropriate to fall and winter weather because of the extra layer. Of course underlining also changes the “hand” of the fabric – which may or may not be to your liking. In the case of these skirts I was very pleased to stiffen up the limp cotton and I think they wear better overall.

Each of these skirts took me about two hours  – they are simple elastic-waist constructions. The brown patchwork-looking skirt is my first attempt at self-drafting an A-line skirt which turned out surprisingly well. The second Christmas skirt came from a pattern I’ve used several times before. In any case, that’s six more yards out of the stash (including the linings) and into the wardrobe with very little effort. I’ve got some corduroy to use up next, just after I get my Christmas quilting finished!