Brian left on Saturday morning for a 9-day hunting trip up North, which coincided with the start of my intensive Zen practice period, and so the house has been very – very – quiet. While I normally fill the empty spaces by listening to podcasts, music, and sometimes netflix while working in the kitchen or sewing room – I started out on the day that Brian left by turning on nothing at all in the early hours before I went to the Zen-do. This was repeated on the Sunday morning, when I rose at six to work in the sewing room before attending another day of sitting – watching the light rise outside in the silence of morning as I worked on the bits and pieces that have been catching my interest lately. The photos above represent my work of the weekend and last couple of days – prepping the embroidery piece, natural fabric dying with some textual experimenting, binding the seams on the Cappuccino dress after basting them by hand. I have done most of this work in silence.
Sometimes the story in my head tells me that I must multi-task, or without *entertainment* the process of making is otherwise boring. I don’t know where that story came from, but it is lodged there, and so I keep a stash of podcasts and audiobooks just for when I’m sewing. I do most of my knitting at night while watching netflix or on the bus to work. My making is rarely done without the influence of other activities, in other words, and I rarely stop to question that impulse.
But in the last few days of minimizing other distraction in the sewing room, I’ve noticed how much my work style changes when I am simply on my own, listening to the voice in my own head, instead of channeling someone else’s words, ideas, or sounds. Sometimes I sing to myself during the rote parts of making (I’m working on memorizing some songs for an upcoming show) – but otherwise I have allowed myself to simply be in the moment with whatever I am working on. What that seems to mean is that rather than staying in one place (sitting at the sewing machine, tracing out a pattern, etc) there is much more flow to my working style and I am inclined to work on something as long as it captures my interest and then seamlessly moving onto something else, and then back again. So I do a bit of rote work like tracing, then I get up and go to the kitchen and mix up a batch of whatever natural dye I am experimenting with and cut up cloth to go in it, then I jot down some notes for a letter I am writing (and hope to incorporate into some textile art), then I organize supplies for a project that is in-process, and then perhaps I trace a bit more of my embroidery pattern before finishing up. Each task takes as long as it takes, without any other task overlapping – the nature of hands-on work.
This is counter to what I think of as my normal work-style, where I pick one task, turn on a program of about the length of the task and then sit and listen/work for the time period I have allotted. There is rarely time for creativity in that process, and I don’t find myself inspired to pick up another thing or intersperse activities. I am simply sewing/knitting/stitching and listening – and my brain is too full to do much else (like allow an idea to float in and then make some notes about it – which would be two other brain tasks in addition to the two already going on). This is not to say that I am not creative, but I tend to think about projects when I am in other modes of life, without my hands on the tools, rather than letting intuition guide my next movement in the place of process-making.
There have been a rash of studies and articles that demonstrate that most of us can’t really multitask as much as we think we can, and that our brain is just rapidly switching between one thing and another, which gives us the idea that we are able to handle more than one thing at a time. This means that we are forever balancing one brain process against another, and while it doesn’t matter much when doing a rote task (like endless rows of stockinette stitch on number three needles), it’s not conducive to the process of having new thoughts and then being able to follow them up with an action. That is, it impedes our ability to move fully into a creative mode, even while we are in the act of making. This experiment of the last few days – of intentional silence – is a reminder of that for me anyway.
I am not saying that I am going to give up listening to podcasts and music in the sewing room – we all know how much rote work we must engage in that truly does become tedious. Hand-basting miles of bias tape to seams is definitely made better by watching a bit of television! But part of my practice focus right now is to spend more time being *just* creative, and that means more time in silence when I’m at work on some or another project. I have some deep creative welling going on at the moment, and I figure the least I can do to honour that (and myself) is to listen deeply to that process rather than another round of This American Life.
(Quotation in the title is Seneca, the famous Roman Stoic and statesperson – he meant this in the physical sense – the full quote is “To be everywhere is to be nowhere. People who spend their whole life travelling abroad end up having plenty of places where they can find hospitality but no real friendships.” – but I think it applies psychically as well.)
This in no way constitutes a project list – because I’m not making a list of things that I should, or will do. That’s just a trap, doncha know? But I will tell you what garments seem like interesting makes to me at the moment, two of which I have the materials for already. If I actually start any of these, there will be a more detailed post on each of them.
First up is the Purl Soho Quilted Vest (featured on the left). I’ve got a light corduroy fabric that I picked up with this project in mind a couple of weeks ago, and three different quilting-weight cottons that I am weighing for the lining. A little while ago I started working on the Colette Wardrobe Architect Workshop and while I didn’t get further than the first couple of worksheets, I very quickly identified that I am a person who very much likes clothing for layering. Partly that’s because I live in the perpetual swing season of the west coast where you might be hiking on Christmas Day in a t-shirt, or battling a monsoon in August – and partly that’s because I’ve got body image issues and I like to cover up. Yes, I realize that layering isn’t the most slimming look, but body-brain problems are not exactly rational are they?
Anyhow – I currently own one outdoor vest, and it gets a lot of use when I don’t feel like wearing a heavy coat but I need something transitional. Although I have pictured the cotton vest above (because I want to use cottons) – I’m actually thinking I might use the pattern for the Wool Vest version which has pockets and buttons/snaps. We’ll see. I’ve printed out both of the free templates and this is a project that I am going to make a muslin for because top pieces don’t always get along with my bustline and I think I might have to do a full-bust adjustment on this one. After all, this is Purl Soho we’re talking about; I can’t help thinking that the clientelle whom they aim their products at are very elite/thin NYC women – which I am pretty much the opposite of.
But nevermind that – I love their free projects on the Purl Bee and I lust after many of their products – though between the initial cost, the exchange rate to Canada, and the shipping costs – I would pretty much have to sell my house to purchase from them.
Enough about that though, the second item that I’ve got the pattern and fabric for already is the Lady Skater Dress. The name alone is enough to get me excited about this pattern because when I was a eight, I couldn’t tell you what was more glamorous than the lady skater costumes (except for singers in restaurants – I thought they were pretty glam too). But really what attracts me to this pattern is the simplicity of a jersey-knit dress and a pattern that does (at least according to Mary over at Idle Fancy). I bought a ton of jersey knit at one point, in white, black, and red – and I need to use it up. Plus I’ve been thinking that because I will never wear white, and the red is too gauche – I wanted to find a simple pattern to make and then practice dying with.
This dress has been made lots and from what I can tell, it looks good on everyone. If I make a black version, it has the added bonus of being another garment for meditation practice – because knits are comfy over long periods of time!
My final fall intrique is the Aster by Colette Patterns. I should just say up front that me and blouses don’t have a very good history together. Though I so much desire the ability to wear a blouse with a pair of jeans or a skirt (as opposed to a pullover top, or a tank top with a cardigan) – I pretty much never find button-up tops that work for me – which is true for all women with boobage. Really, you end up stuck with a huge floaty sack, or the buttons are straining to close and gapping in between. There don’t seem to be a lot of options in ready-made clothing beyond that – which is why I have bought and then purged so many blouses over the years.
As a sewist, you would think I would have tried to make a blouse already – but no! It hasn’t happened because I am afraid of button holes. Making them, that is. I don’t have good button hole skills and so I pretty much stay away from anything that has a front-button closure. So Aster presents a challenge to me – which I’m ready for in my sewing life. Also, Colette has a very good sew along site for their patterns that includes this excellent tutorial on the full bust adjustment for the pattern.
I love the neckline on this, and the simplicity of the lines overall – though I would probably veer towards a 3/4 length sleeve version, or create ties for rolling up the long sleeves – since I pretty much never wear my sleeves long. I don’t currently have the pattern or the fabric for this – so it’s the last thing on my makes list at the moment. I really am trying to use up some of my stash this fall!
I’m just finishing up the Cappuccino Dress and working on my Zen embroidery project set-up at the moment, so it’s unlikely that any of these will get started this week – but it’s a tossup what will happen next!
A couple weekends ago I was at my local market and a bag of raw olives just jumped into my basket. Besides that, I have really no explanation for how I managed to bring home ten pounds of Sevillano Olives without the faintest idea of what to do with them.
But here they were in my kitchen, wrapped in a mesh bag all the way from California, and so after about eight days of that I realized – I have to get going on these before they shrivel and become unusable, and so at the end of last week (right before the start of meditation retreat) I got down to processing them.
This extension office hand-out is the best thing I found, by far, on the many ways to cure olives. (I personally think the Extension Offices in the United States are pretty much the best thing about that country and I don’t understand why Canada doesn’t have something similar.)
Although I am super-curious about lye-curing olives, I didn’t have any lye on hand, nor did I have time to stop at the Homesteader’s Emporium to get some. Instead, I opted to try them two different ways – Brine Ferment, and Water Cured. Because ten pounds of olives translates into 2 gallons of processed olives, I’ve got two jars of each, and I’ve done each jar differently. The brine-ferment jars are spiced – one with pickling spice, and the other with peppercorns and chilis. I plan to spice the water-cured ones differently as well, but I also processed them in two different ways – cut, and cracked. I figure that since this might be the one and only time I get my hands on raw olives (I’ve never seen them in a store here before) – I might as well experiment and see what turns out the most edible.
At the moment, I’ve got them lined up on the counter, mostly so I can keep an eye on the brine-fermenters, and so that I don’t forget to change the water on the water-cured ones every day for the next couple of weeks. I’m notoriously bad about starting fermented projects and then leaving them to dry out or mould – which is basically why I ended up with no sauerkraut this year. (It fermented super fast because of the heat and then turned to mush pretty much just as fast.)
Anyhow, these definitely require some attention, so I’m leaving them where I can see them.
As I mentioned in my last post about the Cappuccino Dress I’m working on, I was thinking about doing more than just zig-zagging the interior seams to finish them (I have no serger so that is never an option). For the initial dress seams, I used the french seam technique – which I use whenever possible because it makes a garment as beautiful inside as it is out – but this dress has some unusual construction elements that make french seams not possible in some places. So I’ve decided to try a Bias Bound Seam instead.
Using 1/4 inch double-fold bias tape (in bulk I bought 10 metres of it at Dress Sew for $2.29), I started tacking it down with pins last night while watching an episode of Midsomer Murders – but quickly realized that with that little room to play, any shifting of the tape while sewing would cause a terrible mess – and my pinning skills aren’t the best. So instead, I switched to hand-basting the tape down, and am midway through the process – as pictured above. It’s taken me about an hour so far, so I anticipate that with another hour I will be done – and the final machine-sewing won’t take more than twenty minutes.
I used to really resist hand-basting in this fashion, even though it’s recommended for all sorts of things – hems, zippers, bindings – because I had a rush approach to garment-making. While I don’t pretend that using more hand techniques is turning out couture garments on my end – taking a step back and giving time to each step definitely does cut down on the frustration. And it also turns out a nicer product.
What I notice right away while hand-basting the seam-binding is how much it gives the inside of the dress a vintage garment feel; this used to be a very common way for home sewists to do finishes. I once went to an estate sale for a very elderly woman who had sewn all her life, and had racks of handmade garments and vintage fabric for sale (that’s where I bought the wool used in the Woodland Stroll Cape). Every one of her garments had bound or French seams – even the housedresses and aprons.
In any case, I’ve got a busy weekend ahead and I probably won’t get this stage finished until Monday. My husband leaves town for ten days tomorrow morning, and while I’ve got a full schedule for the week – I’m pretty sure his absence will allow me a little more time on the sewing machine (and knitting needles, and so forth).
All the things I want to do, and all the things I have to do – aren’t exactly lining up these days. Partly it’s that slump thing I wrote about recently, but partly it’s because I feel so inspired to knit and sew and go for long walks in the mountains – and my days and even my weekends aren’t allowing for as much of that as I would like.
But at the same time – I feel like my wants are crazy big at the moment even though I have (almost, literally) everything in my life that I want – and that anyone could ever want.
And here I find myself smack dab in the middle of the Second Noble Truth. Again. Desire and craving for something else, until the something else comes along for enough time to get bored of it – and then desire and craving for another thing, and another. “There is the origin of suffering…. attachment to desire. Desire should be let go of.”’
Like Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden – their needs were met, and yet still they were tempted into the one novel experience left to them. They bit into that apple, and thus all of human history is suffering – and the apple stands in for desire forever more.
My desires are not lustrous, nor far-fetched. I can attain all the things that I want, and yet I am held back by the desire to have more time, more energy, more leisure – and then rushing from one project to the next as though the only point is to finish in order to start anew. It makes me restless just thinking about it.
Can I step back for one second and just be? Just be here at my desk making my earnings, or just be kneeling on my meditation mat in the mornings, or just be sewing the seam-bindings onto my new dress. Just be one of those things at a time.
That’s the practice, I suppose. Counting the breaths in one place at a time.